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A very pleasant evening in one of Brussels’ historic gastronomic institutions.
The setting is beautiful: elegant, calm and comfortable, with attentive service that strikes the right balance between professionalism and warmth. I was dining alone with a book and was given a quiet corner table, which I particularly appreciated.
The tasting menu showcased high-quality ingredients throughout. The foie gras with umeboshi and plum was outstanding and undoubtedly the highlight of the meal. The cheese soufflé with grey shrimp was also very enjoyable, while the monkfish was perfectly respectable and elegantly presented. The cuisine is refined, technically accomplished and consistently polished.
If I had one observation, it is that the menu seemed to favour elegance and harmony over contrast and surprise. Personally, I would have enjoyed a little more variation in flavour profiles and textures over the course of the evening. That said, this is very much a matter of personal preference rather than a criticism of the execution.
The wine programme deserves special praise. A carefully chosen white wine accompanied the meal beautifully, and a glass of 2003 Colheita Port with the cheese proved to be one of the most memorable moments of the evening.
Overall, a highly enjoyable experience in a beautiful setting. I left with the feeling that this is a restaurant I would gladly return to, not only for the cuisine, but also for the atmosphere, the service and the quality of the cellar.